Dyeing Wool Naturally With Plants

Here is my step-by-step process for dyeing wool naturally with plants. It is easier than you’d think! But there are a few keys to ensuring dye success. So I will share with you the basics of plant dyes, as well as how to get a rich color that stays!

The goldenrod and marigolds are blooming. The walnuts are falling from the trees. And that means it is time to do some dyeing!

Dyeing natural fibers with plants is a traditional handicraft that anyone can pick up. It is a very simple process that does not require much in the way of equipment. A few pots, a strainer and some tongs are just about all you need. It is a handicraft that takes experimentation well, and it is one that is hard to mess up.

However, there are a few important things to know to create a successful, long lasting dye.

Fugitive vs. Colorfast Dyes

The definition of fugitive is “quick to disappear”, and that is exactly what a fugitive dye does – it disappears quickly. An often overlooked point, most plant dyes are fugitive. For example, red cabbage, berries, turmeric, onion skins and black beans are all popularly recommended plant dyes, but all of these are fugitive. The color they give will not last.

On the other hand, colorfast dyes are dyes that will last a long time. They will hold their color through washings and light exposure. There are not many colorfast plant dyes. But what colorfast plant dyes we do have can be combined to make a full range of colors. Indigo and woad give us beautiful blues, while Madder and Cochineal (actually an insect dye, not a plant dye) give us vibrant reds. Weld and Goldenrod give us yellows. And Walnut gives us browns. With just these seven colorfast natural dyes we can create just about any color imaginable!

Weigh Your Wool & Your Plant Matter

It is crucial that you weigh both your wool and your plant matter. I use my kitchen scale for this. For every 100g of wool, you will need at least 100g of plant matter for your dye.

Scour Your Wool

Scouring is the process of cleansing the wool prior to dyeing. This step is important as it helps to remove any oils or anything that could interfere with the dyeing process.

First fill your sink with cool water. Next add a couple drops of a gentle pH neutral soap, such as an unscented natural dish soap. Then let your wool soak in the soapy water for about 30 minutes.

That’s it! Now your wool is ready for the next step: Mordanting.

Mordant Your Wool

Mordanting is the process of soaking your wool in a metallic salt bath. This step is also important as it helps the dye molecules to adhere to the fibers.

For every 100g of wool, use 1-2 tbsp. of alum and 1 tsp. of cream of tartar.

To make your mordant, combine your measured amounts of alum and cream of tartar in a small glass bowl or jar. Add in a small amount of warm water and stir until the powders are fully dissolved.

Fill a large stainless steel or enamel pot 3/4 of the way full with water. Bring the water to a simmer. Then add your mordant solution.

Place your scoured yarn into the mordant bath and gently simmer it for 30-60 minutes.

Now your wool is ready for the fun part, dyeing!

Watch my Video on Dyeing Wool Naturally With Plants to See my Process From Start to Finish!

Tips for Dyeing Wool Naturally with Plants:

• Generally speaking, fresh plant matter will yield a stronger, more vibrant dye than dried plant matter will. If you can, harvest the same day that you do the dyeing.
• Be sure to use a 100% wool yarn for this, as wool that has been blended with acrylic or other fibers will not work.
• Do not use your cooking equipment for dyeing. Keep a separate set of pots, a strainer and a pair of tongs just for dyeing. You can generally find these items at the thrift store!
• Use stainless steel or enamel pots for dyeing. Do not use aluminum.
• In order to dye your yarn, you will need to turn it from a skein or a hank into a big loop. Watch the video at this time stamp to see how to do this: 02:03
• Make sure your yarn is still wet from the scouring when it goes into the mordant bath. And still wet from the mordant bath when it goes into the dye pot. If for whatever reason your yarn has dried out in between the scouring and mordanting, or in between the mordanting and dyeing, then rinse it in cool water to dampen it before placing it into the mordant/dye bath.
• I prefer to do my dyeing outside over the fire pit or in my husband’s wood shop over the wood stove. You can certainly do this in your kitchen on your regular stove. But I am prone to mess making, so I do it out of the house if I can!

Tools:

• Stainless Steel or Enamel Pots (I like to have one for mordanting and one for each dye color)
• Fine Mesh Strainer
• Kitchen Scale
• Kitchen Tongs

Steps For Dyeing Wool Naturally With Plants

These steps will pick up with the dye bath process and assume you have already harvested your plant matter and prepared your yarn according to the steps outlined above (watch the video if you need further clarification).

1. Fill your stainless steel or enamel pots 3/4 of the way full with water. Use a different pot for each dye you plan to make. For example, I used three pots to make three different dyes.
   

2. Add your weighed plant matter to the pots of water.

3. Set your pots on the stove and bring them to a simmer. Let simmer for around one hour. Do not boil, as boiling can dull the color.

4. After your dye has simmered for an hour, strain it through a fine mesh strainer, to remove the plant matter.

5. Now return your strained dyes back to the stove.

6. Add your prepared yarn to the dye baths and simmer (gently) for 30-60 minutes. Do not boil, as boiling can felt the wool.

7. Then remove your pots from the heat and leave the yarn to soak in the dye bath overnight.

8. The next morning, pull your yarn out of the dye bath and rinse with cool water, until the water runs clear.

9. Now hang up to dry (I hang mine on the clothes line outside).

10. Once completely dry you can turn your loops of yarn back into skeins and hanks (watch the video at this time stamp to see how to do this: 09:13)

Now your beautifully colored yarn is ready for your next knitting or crocheting project!

If you try this tutorial and enjoy it, I would be so grateful if you could come back and give it five stars! And I love to see your pictures, so be sure to tag me on Instagram @verityfolkschool.

Tell me about your experiences with plant dyes in the comments below! Did you know about fugitive vs colorfast dyes? What are your favorite projects you have made with natural dyes? I’m looking forward to hearing from you!

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